HVAC TIPS

Before Calling Tharling
Helpful Hints
Interesting Facts About HVAC
FAQs
Glossary of Terms

 

Before Calling For Service Check The Following:

 

  • Check power supply.
  • Check thermostat selections.
  • Check air handler.

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    Everything to know about the Filter your using:

 
  • The standard polyester filter.  Generally this comes in one or two inch thicknesses.  This filter is an upgrade from the fiberglass filter, but is still pretty inefficient.  With this type of filter even if you change it regularly you will usually need to have your coil pulled and cleaned about every five years.  These filters are only slightly more expensive than the fiberglass but are several times more efficient.

 

  • The electronic air cleaner installed in the return ducting using the one inch fiberglass filter in the return grill is the most efficient filtering system made.

  

  • A polyester pleated type filter comes in one, two, or four inch thicknesses.  These filters are made of a much denser material which catches smaller particles.  The material used is the same for the different thickness filters it just gives added surface area so that it will hold more dirt and you have to change it less often.  The efficiency is slightly higher for the thicker ones because the increased surface area allows the air to pass across it slower which makes it a little more efficient.  These filters are more restrictive to airflow and you need to be careful that you have a large enough filter to allow for the amount of air that you need to move through it.  If you have a restricted return space with too small a filter you can cause freeze up problems or sweating problems in your air conditioning system.  Formula for one inch filter (pleated) is 20 square inches per 1000 Btu.  Example 3 ton 36X20=920 square inches (can only be done with 2 filter grills).
 
  • The next step is the HEPA type high density pleated filters.  These filters are generally four or five inches thick and provide a much denser material than the standard pleated filter.  They increase the surface area by providing more pleats so that there is not too much restriction.  These filters are very good and generally are rated at about a MERV 10.  These are cartridge type filters and generally need to be replaced every six months to one year depending on the home.  Another advantage to these filters is that they get more efficient as they get dirty.  The dirt build up tightens up the pore spacing in the material and makes it catch more of the smaller particles.   These units generally have to be installed by an air conditioning professional and do not just slip into the normal filter slot. The formula in this filter is 15 square inches per 1000 BTU

 

  • One of the biggest falsehoods in the filter business is the Electo-Static filter.  This is a washable one inch thick filter that is touted to be up to 80% efficient.  These filters are made of a series of mesh screen materials that supposedly create a static charge as the air moves across them which is supposed to attract the dirt particles.  This is the same principle as running a comb through your hair and then picking up small pieces of paper with it.  This static charge is killed if there is any humidity in the house.  Basically when you can walk across a carpet in your home and shoot sparks to the door knob this filter will build a static charge.  In Corpus Christi, that is about 3 days out of the year.  This filter is very restrictive to airflow and not very efficient.  I do not recommend this type of filter at all. The formula on this filter is 20 square inches per 1000 BTU

     

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       Helpful Hints:

  • Change/clean your filter monthly.
  • Check fan belt tension.
  • Lubricate fan and motor bearings.
  • Keep all register vents free from obstructions.
  • Keep all combustible material & solvent away from indoor units.
  • Keep outdoor units free from weeds, leaves, sticks, snow if a heat pump.
  • Keep area clean around heating and cooling equipment.
  • Have system serviced annually.
  • View flame on gas burner if Yellow-tipped instead of Blue, carbon monoxide is being released!!
  • Call us immediately at 713-455-2665

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       Interesting Facts About HVAC

  • Nine out of ten system failures are premature & due to lack of maintenance.
  • A cooling system coil in need of cleaning with a .042 dirt build up can result in 21% effciency loss (E.P.A.)
  • with a low or incorrect refrigerant charge can result in as much as a $30 per month increase.
  • A well maintained system can restore capacity of up to 3/4 ton, improve humidity control & reduce run time.
  • Your furnace is the most used appliance in your home. It operates in both heating & cooling. (Better Business Bureau)

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      Frequently Asked Questions

My unit is not heating or cooling, what should I do? Assuming that you intend to place a call for a service technician, you should immediately turn off your unit. By doing this, you may prevent further damage to your system, or at least expedite repairs when the service technician arrives.

For example: air conditioning units can "freeze up", forming large amounts of ice on the cooling coil. This ice must thaw before any repairs can be made Units can overheat, requiring a "cool-down" period of up to an hour before repairs can be made.

What's the most common cause of system break-downs? Systems commonly fail when air filters are not changed regularly. This one problem is responsible for many unnecessary service calls. Because the air filter's function is to trap dust and impurities in your interior environment, it must be replaced often to work properly. The filter is typically located in your furnace or in a return air filter grille. You should do this as frequently once a month. Not changing filters leads to improper air circulation, which makes the unit run at less-than-peak efficiency (which means higher bills), and doing so for a long period of time can dramatically shorten the life of your central heat/air conditioning unit. Improperly sized high efficiency filters comes in second place.

What are some of the things to look for before I call Air By Tharling? A close second to the filter issue is a tripped (or blown) breaker or fuse. Many times, simply resetting the circuit breaker will correct the problem and your system will immediately resume working. But sometimes, a tripped breaker, especially if it occurs with any regularity, can indicate other problems. If this occurs during an electrical storm, or during a time of peak electrical usage , it's possible that the problem is not symptomatic of anything serious. You should allow your system to remain off for a few minutes, in order to allow the condition to stabilize itself. Then, find the breaker panel (or in older homes, possibly the fuse box) and reset the breaker (or replace any blown fuses) that supports your air conditioning system.

To reset the breaker, first push the switch to the off position and then back to the on position. If a breaker will not reset, or trips again immediately after resetting, you will need to call a qualified service company. You could possibly have an electrical short or some other potentially serious service problem.

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      Glossary of HVAC Terms

At Air By Tharling we want our customers to be informed concerning terms used by our staff. Therefore, we offer the following Glossary of Terms to assist you in making informed decisions about your HVAC needs.

Advanced Reciprocating Compressor—Type of compressor that uses a more efficient process for compressing refrigerant for better cooling efficiency.

AFUE—Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. Indicated as a percentage, your furnace’s AFUE tells you how much energy is being converted to heat. For example, an AFUE of 90 means that 90% of the fuel is being used to warm your home, while the other 10% escapes as exhaust with the combustion gases.

BTU—British Thermal Unit. Used for both heating and cooling, BTU is a measure of the heat given off when fuel is combusted. Or for cooling, it’s a measure of heat extracted from your home. One BTU is equal to the heat given off by a wooden kitchen match.

Capacity—The ability of a heating or cooling system to heat or cool a given amount of space. For heating, this is usually expressed in BTUs. For cooling, it is usually given in tons.

CFM- A standard of airflow measurement. Cubic feet per minute. A typical system produces 400 CFM per ton of air conditioning. 

Compressor—Part of a split-system heat pump or air conditioner’s outdoor unit that controls the pressure applied to the refrigerant, necessary for taking in heat to warm your home or getting rid of heat to keep your home cool.

Condenser Coil—Part of the outdoor portion of a split-system air conditioner or heat pump. By converting refrigerant that is in a gas form back to a liquid, the coil sends heat carried by the refrigerant to the outside.

Condenser Pad The concrete pad which supports your condensing unit may need replacement. If your old pad is broken, smaller than required for your new unit or has sunk into the ground, a replacement pad may be required.

Damper—A type of "valve" used in duct work that opens or closes to control airflow. Used in zoning to control the amount of warm or cool air entering certain areas of your home.

Disconnect—The disconnect is an electrical switch which is located at the condensing unit. This switch allows anyone servicing a condenser to turn off power at the unit. Most city codes require that a disconnect be installed when replacing a unit if one does not already exist.

Downflow—A type of furnace that takes cool air from the top and blows warm air to the bottom—common where your furnace must be located in a second-floor closet or utility area.

Ductwork - Pipes or channels that carry air throughout your home.

Electronic Air Cleaner (EAC)—An electronic device that filters out large particles and contaminants in indoor air. It then electronically pulls out tiny particles that have been magnetized, such as viruses and bacteria, drawing them to a collector plate.

Evaporator Coil—Part of a split-system air conditioner or heat pump located indoors. The evaporator coil cools and dehumidifies the air by converting liquid refrigerant into a gas, which absorbs the heat from the air. The warmed refrigerant is then carried through a tube to the outdoor unit (condenser coil).

Fan Coil—An indoor component of a heat pump system, used in place of a furnace, to provide additional heating on cold days when the heat pump does not provide adequate heating.

Filters—Electronic, pleated and electrostatic filters are common upgrades to the throw-away, fiberglass filter your system probably uses now. Depending on your needs, a new type of filter may improve the air quality in your home.

Heat Exchanger - A device for the transfer of heat energy from the source to the conveying medium.

HSPF—The Heating Seasonal Performance Factor is a measure of the heating efficiency of a heat pump. The higher the HSPF number, the more efficiently the heat pump heats your home.

Horizontal Flow—A type of furnace, installed on its "side," that draws in air from one side, heats it and sends the warm air out the other side. Most often used for installations in attics or crawl spaces.

HVAC—Term used for Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning.

Humidifier—A piece of equipment that adds water vapor to heated air as it moves out of the furnace. This adds necessary moisture to protect your furnishings and reduce static electricity.

Load Estimate—A series of studies performed to determine the heating or cooling requirements of your home. An energy load analysis uses information such as the square footage of your home, window or door areas, insulation quality and local climate to determine the heating and cooling capacity needed by your furnace, heat pump or air conditioner. When referring to heating, this is often known as a Heat Loss Analysis, since a home’s heating requirements are determined by the amount of heat lost through the roof, entry ways and walls.

Matched System—A heating and cooling system comprised of products that have been certified to perform at promised comfort and efficiency levels when used together, and used according to design and engineering specifications.

Operating Cost—The day-to-day cost of running your home comfort equipment, based on energy use.

Payback Analysis—Overall measure of the efficiency and value of your home comfort system. By combining your purchase price and ongoing operating costs, a payback analysis determines the number of years required before monthly energy savings offset the purchase price.

Reclaiming—Returning used refrigerant to the manufacturer for disposal or reuse.

Reciprocating Compressor—A type of compressor used in air conditioners that compresses refrigerant by using a type of "piston" action.

Recycling—Removing, cleaning and reusing refrigerant.

Refrigerant Lines—The refrigerant lines connect the condenser to the evaporator coil. These copper tubes carry the refrigerant which is under pressure (as much as 350 pounds per square inch). If the refrigerant lines have had a history of leaks or are smaller in diameter than recommended for the system being installed, they should be replaced.

SEER—The Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio is a measure of the cooling efficiency of your air conditioner or heat pump. The higher the SEER number, the more efficient the system is at converting electricity into cooling powe

Scroll Compressor—A specially designed compressor that works in a circular motion vs. an up and down piston action.

Setback Thermostat—A state-of-the-art electronic thermostat with a built-in memory that can be programmed for different temperature settings at different times of the day.

Split System—Refers to an air conditioner or heat pump that has components in two locations. Usually, one part of the system is located inside (evaporator coil) and the other is located outside your home (condenser coil).

Thermidistat—The Thermidistat Control monitors temperatures both inside and outside, as well as indoor humidity and adjusts system operation to maintain the temperature and humidity levels set by the homeowner.

Thermostat—Unit that monitors and controls your HVAC system products.

Ton—A unit of measure for cooling capacity. One ton = 12,000 BTUs per hour.

Upflow—A type of furnace that draws cool air from the bottom and blows the warmed air out the top into the duct work. This type of furnace is usually installed in a basement or an out-of-the-way closet.

Ventilator—A ventilator captures heating or cooling energy from stale indoor air and transfers it to fresh incoming air.

Zoning—A way to increase your home comfort and energy efficiency by controlling when and where heating and cooling occurs in a home. Programmable thermostats are used to control operating times of the equipment. Dampers are used to direct air flow to certain parts or "zones" of the home.

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